Menu No 6 Redux


If Menu No 5 is something of an ode to where I came from then Menu No 6 is one to where I live now: New York. Well, Brooklyn. There are countless songs about this town. So many, in fact, it’s hard to keep track. “Oh What A World,” by Rufus Wainright, was released the year I moved to New York, but I was only told about it last week. Wouldn’t it be a lovely headline: “Life is beautiful” on the New York Times?

Tepache

Inarguably, Menu No 6 has a tight schedule. The tepache takes 3-5 days to ferment, meaning you’ll have pineapple cut up in the refrigerator for a few days before your dinner party. This isn’t the end of the world because the high sugar content of pineapple means it’ll last perfectly fine for that long in a tightly sealed container in the back of your refrigerator.

I do understand, though, if you want to skip the tepache. If you do, the pineapple slices with the chili-salt pair exceptionally well with mezcal served in a classic copita. This also makes for a nice alternative to dessert if you want to combine an after-dinner nightcap with a little something savory-salty-sweet.

If you do go forward with the tepache, I should offer that it also goes nicely with a funky Jamaican rum. Funnily enough it also tastes great on its own. I’ll often pour a glass after a run and consider it a refreshing, probiotic Gatorade.

Radishes with Anchovy Butter

Radishes with butter is a classic pairing that a lot of people don’t know about. Radishes with anchovy butter takes it to another level. The salty anchovies, the lusciousness of a quality butter, the brightness of the lemon zest, and the spicy crunch of a radish come together into something quite wonderful.

I’ll often say that anchovies bring an umami flavor, not a fishy one, to a dish, and so if you don’t like anchovies still give the recipe a try. This is not one of those recipes. If you don’t like anchovies you probably won’t enjoy anchovy butter, with or without the radish.

Raviolo al’ Uovo

Menu No 6 starts with a show-stopper: raviolo stuffed with a whole–and wholly unbroken–egg yolk. (Raviolo is just Italian for “big ravioli”.) This recipe is decidedly an undertaking. With that said, none of the parts are especially difficult, but pulling them all together is a commitment. Save this one for impressing your in-laws. Or, if your in-laws think you’re pretentious then save it for your friends who know you’re pretentious but somehow find it charming.

Fromage Blanc

Please don’t send me hate mail that this isn’t actually a fromage blanc. I think we can agree that this is a reasonable facsimile, dare I say faux fromage blanc.

If you’re coming at the carrot cake from a different angle–in other words, if you don’t have egg whites to use–go with a classic cream cheese frosting. Or, if you’re coming from Menus and have a lot of egg whites to use, double the recipe and have the fromage blanc with any number of things coming up in the spring and summer: strawberries, blueberries, peaches, all its own by the spoonful, etc.

Wine Pairings by Tomorrow’s Wine

First
good acidity and minerality, e.g. Vietti Derthona Timorasso

Second
zesty Albariño, e.g. Alberto Nanclares ‘Dandelion’

Last
oxidative Sherry, e.g. Barbadillo Obispo Gascon